snow falling on the holy land

With two minutes until the bus was scheduled to leave this morning and dripping wet from my shower, I threw on a t-shirt, pants, my north face, and CROCS without socks. I ran outside, with Yossi yelling after me that I would be too cold only to see that I was one minute late and the bus was gone already. Of all mornings for the bus to actually leave on time...

One 35 shekel cab ride with Ilana and Mari later, one "mezuyan!" Hebrew oral test later, one 30 shekel VERY wet and cold cab ride back with Debbie, I reveled in the pleasure of my own bed...until Abbie told me it was snowing.

Lots of joyous jumping ensued, and a snow party and snowball fight happened right away, of course. Everyone decided to go to the Old City and Yemin Moshe to see the snow but with call for West Side Story 75 minutes away I decided I didn't have time and took a quick walk downtown to see the area. It was mostly deserted but there were a few "only-in-Jerusalem" sights I saw, like a religious man holding out this big bright white and red polka dot umbrella over his daughter's stroller to keep her from getting wet while he meanwhile was getting soaked, teenagers in Kikar Tzion trying to show off to no one around, and so on.

When I got back I found out that the show for tonight was canceled (and rescheduled for Monday). It's nice to have a break but I'm hoping so hard that tomorrow night's show won't be canceled...that's when all my family and friends are coming and if the show is rescheduled for Tuesday, my family will already be back in the States...But it'd be nice if my Hebrew written final tomorrow was cancelled...

Political Communications field trip to Tel-Aviv

On Thursday, my Political Communications teacher took us to Tel Aviv for the day. We visited Galei Tzahal, Galgalatz, Ha'aretz, and Channel 10.

Galei Tzahal is Israel's national army radio station. It was the first station in Israel to broadcast 24 hours a day, and has a more colloquial language format, making it popular with teenagers (who like the less-haughty language), and senior citizens (many of whom are not native Hebrew speakers and would not understand more formal language). It is based in a run-down neighborhood of Jaffa, which is an Arab city next to Tel Aviv. As Galei Tzahal is an army radio station, it also functions as an army base-albeit more of a low-key one, as plenty of civilians work there too. There are soldiers walking around in uniform, but they are mostly youngsters who want a future in journalism, radio, or music. We got to see different parts of the base, including the news desks, internet publishing rooms, and broadcasting rooms.

Galgalatz is mostly a music station, which is an offshoot of Galei Tzahal and is in the same building. It is one of the most (if not the most) popular stations in Israel and in fact, because it is also streamed online, many people from outside of Israel listen to it as well. We had the opportunity to see the studio and listen to the announcer recording, and then to head over to the music library. There we met the guy who is in charge of the thousands of songs Galgalatz has in possession. We got free stickers. It was cool. ;)

Then we headed over to Ha'aretz, which is Israel's 3rd biggest newspaper, but with the most sophisticated reporting. We met with someone, I think he was the head of the news desk or an editor there or something? We learned some really interesting stuff about the paper and Israeli journalism, and got free newspapers and water. (Can you tell I like free stuff?)He then showed us the newsroom and we were able to meet Gideon Levy, quite possibly one of the most inflammatory controversial reporters in Israel. (Go to www.haaretz.com and read some of his articles, you'll see what I mean!) It wasn't a planned thing so he didn't have anything prepared but we got to ask him a few questions and hear his controversial views.

After lunch at the Azrieli Center (MALL! SHOPPING! CONSUMERISM! AHH!--can you tell I miss the shopping Jerusalem does NOT offer?), we headed over to Channel 10 News, one of the big news channels (although they do produce other shows other than news-there were ads around for some weight loss competition show, I guess America isn't the only country that offers stupid, brain-numbing reality shows). We saw the news rooms, control rooms, the studio, and a room full of Arabic specialists keeping tabs on al-Jazeera and other Arab stations. Of course there were TVs broadcasting news from everywhere in the world, and I SAW CNN ON SOME OF THEM! Not that I was even a big CNN junkie at home, but it's so exciting to see things like that in Israel. We saw the anchor get ready for filming the 5:00 news, he was wearing jeans and a shirt with a too-short tie. But he slipped on a suit jacket, sat down, and no one could see the fashion faux pas anymore. From the control room we could see the digital editing happening on the spot and then the final product being broadcast on national television.

The need for fluent English speakers in this field was evident to me throughout the day, especially at Ha'aretz which publishes English editions online and in print. As journalism is a field I've thought about in the past, I was glad to see that there could be a spot for me in this field in Israel.

Flip-flopping

Ever since I became aware of politics and the effect that the political process has on our everyday lives, which I think started in 4th grade because of the recent presidential election, I have always been a liberal. As I became more and more aware of politics, my commitment to liberalism increased. When I finally turned 18 and was able to vote, I was proud to associate myself with the values that the Democratic party represented to me.

The only time I used the words "right-wing" were in reference to myself was when I was discussing Israel. I came to Israel for the first time in the summer of 2004, unsure of what my political views were on this place that I had been told about my entire life. Every minute I spent during that idyllic summer only pushed my views further and further to the right.

(Right-wing in Israel most notably refers to the belief that Israel's borders should be those of biblical times, including part of Jordan and the Sinai Peninsula. Also, it usually takes a very negative view towards the Palestinians, and promotes Jewish settlement in the West Bank and Gaza.)

I don't know why, but over the past month or so, my views have been heading more and more towards the left. (Left-wing being in favor of giving up land for peace, supporting Palestinians, etc.)I started out silently disagreeing with many viewpoints of my History of the Modern Palestinians teacher, but now I find myself agreeing with her on many more points. At the same time, I don't know what to believe, and my views keep changing.

For that class I had to read a book called Strangers in the House by Raja Shehadeh, an account of a Palestinian man growing up in the West Bank. Even though I could see where some of the book was clear propaganda, it had an effect on me.

On Friday and Saturday I went to a Shabbaton organized by MASA, the Israeli government organization that provides scholarships for Jews ages 18-30 looking to spend an extended amount of time in Israel. The topic of the weekend was Israeli Security, and it included a tour of the security fence/wall/barrier. I thought I'd be able to gain some perspective, but I only grew more confused.

It's been implied to me before that true Zionists must be right-wing, and as I consider myself a Zionist, this is troubling. I know of course, that that's not true, but I feel a sense of guilt when I see a young Palestinian trying to wash cars stopped at a traffic light for a shekel or two of income for his family, only to be rebuffed by the Israeli drivers.

Every time I see some mark of terrorism, my heart flipflops and I find myself on the right-wing side again. A plaque on a wall reading "Here, on _________, ________ people were killed when a suicide bomber blew himself up on the # ___ bus. May their memories be for a blessing." The Frank Sinatra cafeteria at Hebrew U, where a suicide bomber blew himself up a few years ago before there was efficient security there. Police standing on corners in East Jerusalem. Security guards checking my bag when I enter a restaurant or store.

I recall pictures of Palestinians burning American and Israeli flags. Of suicide bombers' last pictures, decked out in bomb belts and holding a gun. Of masked men surrounding a young boy, instructing him in the use of a rifle. It's hard to know that you're hated simply because of your religion.

But then I learn about the brainwashing that goes on in schools, camps, youth groups, and other aspects of Palestinian society. I learn of the immense poverty, of the inability to make a decent living. The difficulty of farmers to get to their olive trees on the other side of the security fence/wall/barrier. And I feel bad for them. And I feel like the enemy.

It's hard not to know what you believe in. Especially when you're the kind of person I am, one who's grown up with steadfast, unwavering beliefs.

The Israeli-Palestinian conflict/clash/situation isn't one you can pick and choose in. In America you can be Republican but be pro-choice. Or you can be a Democrat and be pro-privatization.

It's hard, if not impossible, to reconcile the opposing sides in this issue.